The Force Awakens X-Wing Helmet Assembly Guide

The Force Awakens X-Wing Pilot Helmet Kit Assembly Tutorial Helmet kit as you will receive it : Main helmet, blast shield, Vacuum formed visor, rear data port, rear antennae and mounting wire, right cheek detail, Mic assembly, blast shield detail knob, visor mounting screws, and blast shield mounting bolts Helmet Kit All Attachments   Recommended tools for assembly: Rotary tool, cutting wheel, sanding drum, 60 thru 400 grit sand paper, drill, 1/8” drill bit, 1/4” drill bit, small pliers/wrench, screw driver, super glue. Dremel tool. I use the Multi-Pro but any rotary tool will do Fiber cutting wheel for the dremel I use a 3/8″ samding drum at 60 and 150 grit Xacto knife-for trimming and cutting where needed     Visor Trimming: The visor will need to be trimmed with about a 1/4” lip around and trimmed flat where it meets the helmet to be mounted with the included screws. The top will need about and 1/8” lip as this will allow it to move up and down. Trimmed and untrimmed visor trimmed visor   Blast shield trimming: Trim the flashing off to meet the edge and use the 1/4” drill bit to drill out the marked mounting holes. In the picture shown I marked the edge with a pencil to better show the edge you will need to trim to. At this point you can also attach the knob to the blast shield as shown. Trim to edge blast shield knob mounting hole drilled Knob in place Main helmet trimming: Trim off all flashing to meet the edge. For those with larger sized heads you can trim...
Fallout: New Vegas NCR Cosplay Helmet Assembly Guide

Fallout: New Vegas NCR Cosplay Helmet Assembly Guide

These will be the steps taken to assemble a cleaned up NCR helmet kit from our Etsy shop. Roll over images for a caption. Click on images for a larger view. What your kit contains. In the following images you will see the items that come in the Trimmed and Raw kits: One helmet (trimmed or raw cast, prices will vary on kit) Red or Green lenses, customers choice. Real gas mask hose with front pipe fitting (already attached), rear fitting, and mounting hardware Gas mask canister with hardware com box/light box with two “L” brackets and hardware for attachment One spotlight with LED housing Trimmed helmet Main Accessory kit Untrimmed helmet Beginning Assembly For this tutorial, we’ll be concentrating on assembling the trimmed kit available for purchase. The same assembly pertains to the non-trimmed kit as well. The trimmed kit will have the lens area cut out, neck ring trimmed, com box trimmed, and com/light box trimmed and dry fitted. It’s best to dry fit everything before painting and final assembly to make sure everything lines up properly. After you have painted the helmet itself, the best piece to start with is the com/light box. Assembling Com/Light Box There are two ways to attach the com/light box: you can either glue it on or bolt it on with the included hardware (two L brackets and screw/nuts). There are screw holes just marked and not drilled, so you can do either. The com/light box will fit on the right side on the side platform. I have marked on the helmet and the com box with silver dots showing where to drill for the screw...
Making your Own Pip-Boy 3000! [Part One: Clean Up, Cutting, Installing)

Making your Own Pip-Boy 3000! [Part One: Clean Up, Cutting, Installing)

Thank you for your interest in a Pip-Boy 3000 cast! We have broken down the steps to making your own Pip-Boy 3000 below. This post, “Part One,” will deal with the cutting and clean-up of the Pip-Boy cast, and Part Two will walk you through the cast prep, painting, detail piece install, closure system,  and the screen install. Want to get your Pip-Boy 3000 cast before you start? Check out my shop. Before you Start Workspace- I recommend working in a well ventilated area like outside on a work table with plenty of room. Tools-Here is a list of tools I use on the Pip-Boys Xacto knife-for trimming and cutting where needed Tin Snips-For cutting and shaping the hinge 2 part epoxy. Any quick set epoxy will do Dremel tool. I use the Multi-Pro but any rotary tool will do Dremel Flex Shaft.I use one for better control and getting into tight spaces Fiber cutting wheel for the dremel 1 1/2″ hinge. Any tyoe will do I use a 3/8″ samding drum at 60 and 150 grit The Tutorial Below, you see the Pip-Boy as you receive it if you order the plain cast from our store. Raw cast Pip-Boy This is our Version 2 that I have modded and remolded for ease of completion. I have added a lip on the screen so you have a better guide with which to cut it out, widened the arm holes, cleaned up the screw mount holes for each side of the screen, and removed the original built in hinge since its never used.  I also cast these a little thinner...
Making a Mold, Part 2 : The Mother Mold

Making a Mold, Part 2 : The Mother Mold

Last week, we covered “Making a Mold, Part One: Making a Silicone Jacket”. Check it out before you read Part 2 down below! Introduction Now, I’ll show you how I did the “mother mold” using Smooth-On‘s Free Form® AIR Lightweight Epoxy Putty. Free Form Air is a two-part epoxy putty that sets overnight into a sandable, carveable, and paintale rigid epoxy. It very tough and very light, which facilitates an easier time slush casting items by hand. We will be creating two sides on the mold, which will allow us to be able to remove the silicone jacket and the cast piece without damaging it. Determine How to Split Your Mold Before you start mixing up the epoxy, you need to decide how you will split your mold. For the Pip-Boy, I settled on two halves with a separation straight down the middle, where I had originally put the keys on the silicone jacket. Measuring and Mixing Free Form Air comes in two parts that measure out by volume. The preferred method, as taught by Smooth-On, is to have two equal balls of part A and B and smoosh them together, then mix by folding it into itself (as seen in these photos). It’s very important to mix it with this method, as it’s easier and gives a more even distribution of material. Part A and B of Free Form Air. I went ahead and measured out two balls of equal size of part A and B. Time to start mixing. Smoosh the balls together and fold into a pancake, and keep folding until it’s all mixed. Keep folding. While you were...
Making a Mold, Part 1: The Silicone Jacket

Making a Mold, Part 1: The Silicone Jacket

Thank you to Lissa Carol for taking pictures for this guide. Building props and costumes are awesome for making one-off items, but what do you do when you have a piece that you need to replicate multiple times? How do you go about that, and where do you go? Well, I am here to help you go about that: by showing you how I did my most recent mold for my Pip-Boy 3000 prop. Getting Started: Think About Your Item (Wearable vs Non-Wearable) The very first thing that needs to be thought about is: how do you want your piece to come out?  Do you want it a solid piece, such as a gun, or is it a mask or gauntlet that needs to be thinner to allow it to be worn? With my Pip-boy, for example, it needs to be worn- so I needed to make sure to design my mold around specifically. There are several ways to make a mold for this prop, but we’ll keep it to the one method that I used which is a thin silicone jacket with a hard mother mold. A jacket is layer of silicone that is a  1/4″ to about a 1/2″ thick, that allows it to be rolled off the cast piece, and the hard mother mold, which gives it a backing so that the shape can be kept without warping. Although there are many types of molding materials out there to use most folks usually stick to their favorites and will only do another type if needed depending on the item you are molding and what material you are casting the...